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South across the river from the Kremlin is Zamoskvoreche, which simply means "Across the Moskva River". This area is clearly defined by geography and history, dating back to medieval times and preserving a host of colourful churches and the mansions of civic-minded merchants. It is one of the most charming parts of the city, with a strongly residential feel, and can be easily traversed by one of the trams which run from Chistye prudy metro along the boulevards and then cut through the Zamoskvoreche. Founded in 1892 by the financier Pavel Tretyakov, the well-renovated, airy, modern Tretyakov Gallery (Tues-Sun 10am-7.30pm; www.tretyakov.ru ; $7), five minutes' walk from Tretyakovskaya metro, was designed by the Slav Romantic artist Viktor Vasnetsov, and displays an outstanding collection of Russian art before the Revolution. Russian icons are magnificently displayed in rooms 56-61, on the second floor. Icons, which originally came to Russia from Byzantium, were valued for their religious and spiritual content rather than artistic merit, and pride of place is given to a series of icons by Andrei Rublev, Daniil Cherniy and Dionysius. The exhibition continues with works by graduates of the Academy, as well as those who were expelled - the Wanderers, who used their art to express social criticism. The Slav Romantics and Symbolists are well represented, and there is a vast room filled with the nightmare-like, fantastical works of Mikhail Vrubel. Twentieth-century and contemporary art is on show at the New Tretyakov opposite the entrance to Gorky Park, at Krymskiy val 10 (Tues-Sun 10am-7.30pm; $6). The display is dominated by the works of the likes of Tatlin, Chagall and Malevich. Gorky Park is famous abroad from Martin Cruz Smith's classic thriller. Inaugurated in 1928, the Soviet Union's first "Park of Culture and Rest" was formed by uniting an exhibition zone near Krymskiy val with the vast gardens of the Golitsyn Hospital and the Neskuchniy Palace. The park's 300 acres now include funfairs, a large outdoor skating rink and lots of woodland (daily 10am-10pm; $1). The highlights are an American rollercoaster (scary but safe), a retired Soviet space shuttle, and a big wheel, which affords great views over Moscow.
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