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HUEDIN (Banffyhunyad), to the north of the Apuseni range and 46km west of Cluj, is a small town with a largely systematized centre. The sixteenth-century Protestant church with its solid guard tower survives, and inside there's a delightfully wonky coffered ceiling; ask at the parish office for the key. There's a good range of coffee shops ( cofetarie ) in Huedin, but the town's only hotel is the Motel Montana (tel 064/253 090; $6-10) at the eastern edge of town. Homestays are a better option; Green Mountain Holidays can arrange beds in and transfers to the village of SANCRAIU (Kalotaszentkiraly), known for its strong Magyar folklore and its thirteenth-century church, just 6km south. The chief reason for stopping at Huedin is to pick up buses to settlements in the surrounding valleys, where traditional customs, architecture and crafts, both Romanian and Magyar, escaped obliteration by the twentieth century and may even be encouraged in the twenty-first. Huedin's train and bus stations are just east and west respectively of the Zimbor road's level crossing, a five-minute walk north of the town centre. Most of the surrounding villages are served by two or three buses a day during the week, but the service is virtually nonexistent at weekends.
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