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The resort of POIANA BRASOV is set at an altitude of 1000m, at the foot of the spectacular Mount Postavaru, 12km southwest of Brasov (bus #20 every half-hour from Livada Postei, by the Parc Central). There is skiing here from December to March on a variety of runs: the Intim and Drum Rosu are the easy ones, the Lupului and Sub Teleferic the steepest. While it's considered a great place to learn to ski, with lots of keen English-speaking instructors, experienced skiers are likely to get bored. Lessons are organized by the tourist office (daily 8am-8pm) in the Complex Favorit, which can also arrange guides for year-round hiking. Skiing equipment can be rented at the Alpin, Ciucas, Soimul and Sport hotels, mountain bikes are available at the Caraiman , and car rental is available through Budget at the Alpin . The hotels are mostly filled by ski-package groups from Britain and elsewhere, but they may have space, especially outside the ski season. The best hotels are the privatized Alpin (tel 068/262 343, fax 262 111, www.ronline.ro/poianacibela ; $35-45) and Sport (tel 068/262 313; $45-60), the latter being the oldest and most attractive hotel in the resort, ideally placed for the slopes. The other hotels are all of a slightly lower, but still perfectly acceptable, standard, with the Poiana (tel 068/262 252, fax 262 130; $15-20) offering tennis courts, the Soimul (tel 068/262 111, fax 262 154; $15-20) saunas and massage, and the Bradul (tel 068/262 313; $15-20) a creche. The tourist office may be able to find you cheaper rooms in a villa or at the Cabana Caprioara (tel 068/475 947; under $6), over a kilometre along the road back to Brasov, but the only truly budget places to stay are the two cabanas on the high slopes of Mount Cristianu (1960m), reached by the Kanzel cable car and gondola: the Postavarul (tel 068/186 356; under $6) and the Cristianul Mare (tel 068/186 545; under $6). The resort's restaurants (11am-midnight) go in for "folk" architecture and local cuisine, as you'd expect with names like Sura Dacilor (Dacians' Grange) and Coliba Haiducilor (Outlaws' Hut); the Stana Turistica is a sheepfold a couple of kilometres away where groups are taken to enjoy fresh milk, cheese and slabs of meat, paying through the nose for the "authentic" decor. The discos in the Sport, Bradul and Soimul hotels run from 10pm to 4am, and folk-dancing shows are laid on for groups at the Miorita hotel. The rustic-looking Capra Neagra is in fact is a nightclub , open until 1am, with the same tacky floorshows as in the Bucharest clubs; the Favorit , in the commercial centre, has a less exotic variety programme, as well as bowling and dancing .
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