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Some 40km southwest of Bucharest is the small village of CLEJANI , renowned throughout the region as a centre for Gypsy music ; the world-famous band Taraf de Haidouks live here when they're not touring, as well as a number of other tremendously talented musicians. If you're a fan of such music, or if you're just interested in experiencing Gypsy culture close up, then take half a day to visit the village - and if you're lucky you may get to hear some of the spellbinding music first-hand. The village itself is unremarkable, whilst the Gypsy settlement - little more than a dusty, mud-dried street lined with crumbling one-roomed homes - is easily found; upon arriving at the village from Vadu Lat, take the first left, continue walking for 400m and you'll find the Gypsy settlement on your right. Strangers are few and far between here and you may initially feel a little intimidated, but for every pair of eyes fixed on you, there will be a bare-footed, grinning child tagging along, eager to have their photo taken. Whilst its doubtful that you'll even find the Taraf de Haidouks (likely to be away touring), let alone afford to pay for them, you may well find another group who will be more than happy to put on an impromptu performance for you; ask around for Sandin Marin, also known as Zis Tagoia, who should be able to gather together the Taraf de Plugari band. It's expected that you'll offer some money in return for the band's efforts - around $10-15 would be appropriate - and a few bottles of beer also wouldn't go amiss. Whilst at the settlement, take the opportunity to wander around; you'll probably be invited into someone's house, which will give you the opportunity to witness first-hand the paucity of Gypsy life. To get to Clejani from Bucharest, take a train from the Gara Basarab to Vadu Lat; five trains a day make this 45-minute journey (the last train back to Bucharest is at 10pm). From the station it's a 3km walk: turn right and continue along the tracks for 100m until you come to some steps set into an embankment; from here walk along the path across the field until you come to the main road, then turn left and carry on walking for 2km - there's a good chance you'll be able to hitch a ride. For more information about visiting the village, the Villa Helga youth hostel in Bucharest may be able to help.
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