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TAVIRA is a clear winner if you are looking for an urban base on the eastern stretch. It's a good-looking little town with superb island beaches in easy reach, yet despite ever-increasing visitors it continues to make its living as a tuna-fishing port. Buses pull up at the new terminal by the river, a two-minute walk from the central square, the Praca da Republica; the train station is 1km from the centre of town, straight up the Rua da Liberdade. Boats cross from Quatro Aguas (during winter dependent on the weather; ?1 return), 2km east of town, to the eastern end of the Ilha de Tavira , which stretches west almost as far as Fuzeta, some 14km away. The beach is enormous, backed by dunes, and despite increasing development - a small chalet settlement, watersports, beach umbrellas and half a dozen bar/restaurants facing the sea - it's an enjoyable spot in which to hang out. Tavira has some of the best areas for scuba diving in Portugal, check out the diving school at Pedras Del Rei (tel 281 793 495). There's a campsite (tel 281 323 505), a minute from the sands, but by far the best place to stay in Tavira is the Residencial Lagoas , north of the river at Rua Almirante Candido dos Reis 24 (tel 281 322 252; GBP10-15/$16-24/?18-27), with the bonus of the budget eatery, Bica . Alternatives include the rambling Pensao do Castelo (tel 281 323 942; GBP10-15/$16-24/?18-27) in the main square, the Residencial Mirante at Rua da Liberdade 83 (tel 281 322 255; GBP15-20/$24-32/?27-36 with breakfast) just up the main road (though it can be a bit noisy), and the lovely Residencial Princesa do Gilao , across the river on the quayside (tel 281 325 171; GBP20-25/$32-40/?36-45), whose front rooms have balconies overlooking the river. If you want to get away from it all try the restored Convento de Santo Antonio (tel 258 835 065; GBP25-30/$40-48/?45-54). Founded in 1606, the Capochino convent has beautiful cloisters and views towards the sea over the salt pans. If these options fail to produce a bed, the tourist office just off the main Praca da Republica (daily 9.30am-5.30/7pm; tel 281 322 511) may be able to find you a private room . A succession of bars and restaurants line the gardens along the bank of the River Gilao, which flows through the centre of town. Probably the best of the restaurants here is the Imperial , which serves some of the finest seafood in the Algarve at fairly reasonable prices. Also good are Anazu , Rua Jacques Pessoa 13, a riverfront cafe which also has an Internet connection (?4/hr), and the Aquasul Restaurante , Rua Dr Augusto Da Silva Carvalho 11-13, which serves fresh pizzas and cosmopolitan main dishes as well as vegetarian dishes on request. The Arco , at Rua Almirante Candido dos Reis 67, is a friendly, laid-back, gay-friendly bar .
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