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Capital of the Moorish kings of the al-Gharb (now Algarve), SILVES is still an imposing place and one of the few towns of inland Algarve that merits a detour. The train station - an easy approach from Lagos or Faro - lies 2km outside the town; there is a connecting bus, but it's worth walking, allowing the town and its fortress to appear slowly as you emerge from the wooded hills. Under the Moors, Silves was a place of grandeur and industry, described in contemporary accounts as being "of shining brightness" within its triple circuit of walls. In 1189 an army led by Sancho I put an end to this splendour, killing some 6000 Moors in the process. The castle is open to the public, but its ghastly past is lost amid well-tended jacaranda trees, oleander shrubs and flowerbeds. The impressively complete sandstone walls of the Moorish fortress (daily 9am-5/8pm; ?1.75) retain their towers and elaborate communication system, but the inside is disappointing: apart from the great vaulted water cisterns that still serve the town, there's nothing left of the old citadel. Just below the fortress is Silves' Cathedral (daily 8.30am-6pm, Sun until 1pm), built on the site of the mosque in the thirteenth century. Much restored and rebuilt over the years, it contains the tombs of some of the Crusaders who died there. Flanked by two broad Gothic towers, it has a suitably defiant and military appearance, though the Great Earthquake of 1755 and centuries of impoverished restoration have left their mark inside. The tourist office , in the heart of the town on Rua 25 de Abril (daily 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm; tel 282 442 255), will help you find a private room . Recommended are those with Isabel Maria da Silva at Rua Candido dos Reis 36 (tel 282 442 667; GBP10-15/$16-24/?18-27), where you share the use of a kitchen and a little outdoor terrace. Another promising option is the Residencial Sousa pension at Rua Samora Barros 17 (tel 282 442 502; GBP20-25/$32-40/?36-45).
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