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CASTELO DE VIDE covers the slopes around a fourteeth-century castle, its blindingly white cottages delineated in brilliant contrast to the greenery around. Arriving by bus, you'll be dropped outside the tourist office (daily: summer 9am-7pm; winter 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm; tel 045 901 361) in the centre of town. From here the main road peters out into a narrow path, descending past a tranquil Renaissance fountain to the twisting alleyways of the Judairia - the old Jewish quarter. Amid the cottages with their Gothic doorways and windows, is a thirteenth-century synagogue (daily 9am-6pm), the oldest surviving one in Portugal. From the outside it doesn't look very different from the cottages, so you will probably need to ask for directions. On a hill above the Judaria, the Castelo (daily: summer 8am-6pm; winter 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm; free) squats within the wider fortifications of the original medieval village. There's a surprising amount of accommodation : try the Casa de Hospedes Melanie , Largo de Paco Novo 3 (tel 245 901 632; GBP15-20/$24-32/?27-36), or for luxury and spectacular views the Albergaria El Rei Dom Manuel ( tel 045 909 150; GBP15-20/$24-32/?27-36) which also has a good restaurant. For delicious snacks try the pastries at the Pasteleria Sol Nascente at Rua de Olivena 31.
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