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The valleys of the Douro and its tributaries are among the most spectacular landscapes in Portugal, and the Douro Valley itself, a narrow, winding gorge for the majority of its long route east to the Spanish border, is the most beautiful of all. The Douro rail route , which joins the river about 60km inland and then sticks to it across the country, is one of those journeys that needs no justification other than the trip itself. At present there are quite regular connections along the line as far as Peso da Regua, though you will most likely find yourself on a single carriage train; beyond Regua, there are less frequent connections to Tua and Pocinho. Cete, half a dozen stations out of Oporto, is just a mile away from the village of PACO DE SOUSA , a former headquarters of the Benedictines in Portugal and a popular picnic spot for Oporto locals. If you're looking for a bed, it's not much further down the line to Penafiel station, connected by bus to the village itself. Split by main-road traffic, PENAFIEL is not that enticing a place, but it has a saving grace in its fabulous local vinho verde wine, served from massive barrels in the adega in the central Largo do Padre Americo. Fado's restaurant still has barrels but is quite smart - the owner will sing fado at weekends if you're lucky; above is the best and cheapest hotel , Casa Joao da Lixa (tel 255 215 158; GBP5-10/$8-16/?9-18). At Livracao, about an hour from Oporto, the Tamega line cuts off for Amarante in the mountains. Shortly after, the main line finally reaches the Douro and heads upstream until, at Mesao Frio, the valley broadens into the little plain commanded by PESO DA REGUA , the depot through which port wine must pass on its way from Pinhao - the centre of production - to Oporto. The tiny tourist office (summer daily 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm; winter Mon-Fri only; tel 254 313 846), 1km from the train station, can inform you about visits to local cellars. Apart from these alcoholic diversions, there's not much to do except wander through the upper village and along the river. If you need to stay, the high-rise Pensao Imperio at Rua Jose Vasques Osorio 8 (tel 254 320 120; GBP15-20/$24-32/?27-36) offers good accommodation , breakfast and views, and Pensao Borrajo on Rua Dos Camilos near the post office, is basic but cheap (tel 254 233 396; GBP10-15/$16-24/?18-27). There are plenty of restaurants along the main street. Beyond Peso da Regua begin the terraced slopes where the port vines are grown: they look their best in August, with the grapes ripening, and in September when the harvest has begun. The country continues in this vein, craggy and beautiful, with the softer hills of the interior fading dark green into the distance, to Tua (junction for the Tua line) and Pocinho, where buses take over for routes east towards Miranda do Douro. From there it's a straightforward hitch in summer to Zamora in Spain.
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