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South from plac Krasinskich, along ulica Miodowa , you find yourself in the heart of aristocratic old Warsaw. The palaces lining Miodowa mainly date from the prosperous pre-Partition era, when this section of the city hummed with the life of European high society. Next door to the Borch palace - now the residence of the Catholic Primate, Cardinal Glemp - stands the Palac Radziwillow (Radziwill Palace), designed by Tylman of Gameren, and adjoined by the later Palac Paca (Pac Palace; the resulting agglomeration is sometimes known simply as the Pac-Radziwill Palace), with its distinctive frieze-topped entrance. Across the street is the Basilan church and monastery, the city's only Greek Catholic (Uniate) church, designed with an octagonal interior by Merlini in the 1780s. A few steps down ul. Miodowa to the southwest is the late seventeenth-century Kosciol Kapuczynski (Capuchin Church), repository of the heart of Jan Sobieski, while off to the left, at the bottom of ul. Kapitulna on ul. Podwale, the Pomnik Jana Kilinskego (Jan Kilinski Monument) commemorates another stirring figure in the country's history. During the 1794 Insurrection, it was the shoemaker Kilinski who led the citizens of Warsaw in their assault on the tsarist ambassador's residence on this street. His special place in local consciousness was amply demonstrated during World War II after the Nazi governor took down the uncomfortably defiant-looking monument and locked it up in the Muzeum Narodowe - the next day this message was scrawled on the museum wall: "People of Warsaw, here I am! Jan Kilinski." Returning to ul. Miodowa, and continuing about 200m further southwest towards ul. Miodowa's continuation, ul. Kozla, you'll come across the Palac Przymasowski (Przymasowski Palace), another imposing monument to the Neoclassical tastes of Poland's eighteenth-century aristocracy.
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