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First stop on any itinerary of Jewish Warsaw is the Nozyk Synagogue , a stately ochre structure hidden behind a white office block on ul. Twarda, the only one of the ghetto's three synagogues still standing. The majestic Great Synagogue on ul. Tlomackie - which held up to three thousand people - was blown up by the Nazis, and in a gesture of crass insensitivity, the Polish authorities decided to build a flashy skyscraper on the site, now the Sony building. The Nozyk, a more modest affair built in the early 1900s, was used as a stable, a food store and then gutted during the war, reopening in 1983 after a complete restoration. The refined interior is officially only open to tourists from 10am to 3pm on Thursdays, but in practice it's possible to get in at other times with a little diplomacy. The Jewish Theatre , rehoused just east of the synagogue on plac Grzybowski, continues the theatrical and musical traditions of the ghetto. Before you leave the area walk across plac Grzybowski to Prozna . This street has somehow survived the ravages of war and (in some cases) reconstruction, and stands scaffolded but surviving as a testimony to prewar red-bricked Warsaw.
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