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Fourteen kilometres west of Kalwaria Zebrzydowska is the little town of WADOWICE , whose rural obscurity was shattered by the election of local boy Karol Wojtyla to the papacy in October 1978. Almost instantly the town became a place of pilgrimage, with the souvenir industry quick to seize the opportunities. The train and bus stations are on the eastern side of the town, from where it's a ten-minute walk to the elegantly paved and flowerbedded market square. Main point of reference here is the onion-domed parish church , where Karol Wojtyla was baptized in 1920. Most visitors gravitate towards the Chapel of the Virgin Mary on the left-hand side of the entrance, site of a nineteenth-century image of the Virgin to which Karol Wojtyla prayed regularly as a schoolboy. Behind the church, the old town hall now houses a museum (Mon-Thurs 9am-3pm; Fri 9am-4.30pm, Sat 10am-2pm, Sun 11am-3pm; 2zl) with changing exhibitions on local history. A few steps away from the museum at ul. Koscielna 7 is the pope's birthplace , a simple two-room apartment where he spent the first 18 years of his life. It has now been turned into a shrine-like museum (Tues-Sun 9am-1pm & 2-6pm; free), packed with pictures illustrating the pontiff's early life. It's far too small to cope with the coach parties that regularly descend on the place, so be prepared for a bit of a crush. For a place to stay , your best bets are the Dom Pielgrzyma hostel, which offers dorms and simple doubles south of the square at Fatimska 90 (tel 033/873 1200; 60-90zl/GBP11-16/US$15-22.50); and the Podhalanin hotel , an army-owned rest home at the north end of town on the Oswiecim road at ul. Wojska Polskiego 17 (tel 033/823 3817; 90-120zl/GBP16-22/US$22.50-30), and offering acceptable en-suites. Wadowice has one culinary claim to fame in the shape of the Kremowka Wadowicka , a deliciously wobbly slice of creamy custard that is sold at all the town's cafes - Cukierna Beskidzka , just off the main square on ul. Jagiellonska, is one of the best places to try it. For more substantial eating, the Piwnica restaurant , also on Jagiellonska, serves up good, inexpensive pork and fish dishes in an attractive cellar. Kawiarna Galicja , right next to the pope's birthplace on Koscielna, is a relaxing place for civilized drinking .
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