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KIELCE , the regional capital, is nothing much to look at, having undergone the standard postwar development, but it has a relaxed, down-at-heel, rural atmosphere. Long the chosen summer residence of the bishops of Krakow, who furnished the city with its main architectural attractions, the town retains little more than echoes of its grander past. Its place in the postwar record is assured, as the site of the infamous July 1946 pogrom when over forty Jewish survivors of the Nazi terror were murdered by locals inflamed by rumours of the attempted ritual murder of a Gentile child. On a more contemporary note, the economic transformations of the post-communist era are beginning to show through - albeit much more slowly than in Krakow - in the increasing tally of new shops, cafes and restaurants in evidence in the city centre.
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