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Most people see nothing more of the northern reaches of Malopolska than the glimpses snatched from the window of a Warsaw-Krakow express train - a pity, because the gentle hills, lush valleys, strip-farmed fields and tatty villages that characterize the region are quintessential rural Poland. The main town is Kielce , roughly halfway between Warsaw and Krakow, but the real attraction for visitors lies in rambling about in the Swietokrzyskie - so-called mountains that are, in reality, more of a hill-walkers' range. Lovers of castles will not want to miss the magnificent ruins at Krzyztopor , while south of Kielce, the Jaskinia Raj (Raj Cave), Checiny and the skansen at Tokarnia make enjoyable excursions, the latter being one of the best of the country's numerous open-air folk architecture museums. They're all in relatively easy striking distance of the city, making it feasible, given an early start, to combine all three in a day's outing. Heading north along the main road to Warsaw, through the attractive Malopolska countryside, there are a couple of minor stops worth considering: the Cistercian abbey at Wachock and the old shtetl of Szydlowiec , which has one of the largest remaining Jewish cemeteries in the country.
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