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The gateway to Babia Gora national park is ZAWOJA , a straggling community situated on the banks of the Skamica, around 65km from Krakow. Its residents claim that it stretches 12km from end to end, making it the longest village in Poland, and perhaps even in Europe. It's a bucolic place largely unspoiled by tourism, and - in contrast to other Polish highland resorts - there's no real village centre boasting tourist services, cafes and shops. There's a limited amount of skiing activity in winter, with a number of slopes suitable for beginners and unambitious intermediates on the southwest fringes of the village; at other times Zawoja is an oasis of rustic peace. There's no rail line, but direct buses run from Krakow, Katowice and Bielsko-Biala - as well as from Wadowice, 70km to the north. Most buses terminate at Zawoja-Policzne at the extreme south of the resort, near the entrance to the national park - this is the best place to get off if a day out in the hills is all you require. If you're interested in a place to stay in Zawoja, it's worth alighting at Zawoja-Centrum, 6km before Zawoja-Polanicze, where the local tourist office (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; ) will direct you towards private rooms (under 60zl/GBP11/US$15). Most of the village's accommodation options and shops are grouped around Zawoja-Widly, midway between Centrum and Polanicze. Best of the places to stay in Widly is probably the Krokus (tel 033/877 5140; 90-120zl/GBP16-22/US$22.50-30), a family-run pension that offers tidy en-suites with TV; although the plainer en-suites on offer at the nearby Zawojanka (tel 033/877 5122; 60-90zl/GBP11-16/US$15-22.50) will suffice providing it's not overrun by school groups. Both the Zawojanka and the Diablak , also in Widly (tel 033/877 5126), offer accommodation in five- or six-person dorms from 15zl per person. Camping Rafako (tel 033/877 5176), also in Widly, has all-year bungalows (60-90zl/GBP11-16/US$15-22.50). There's a scattering of snack bars in Widly, and the hotels also offer food, although Jadlo pod Lipami , just uphill from the main road, is the best place in which to sample good home cooking.
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