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Moving west of Wawel along the loop of the river, you soon enter the Zwierzyniec district, one of the city's oldest suburbs and the home of several Krakow traditions, notably the custom of constructing szopki (cribs) at Christmas and the Lajkonik ceremony. Perched at the edge of the river, the Norbertine church and monastery is a fortified thirteenth-century structure, with a fine Romanesque portal (all that remains of the original building) and a restful Neoclassical interior. Used by the nuns living in the complex, it's a good spot for a quiet moment away from the city bustle. The church isn't often open, though, so it's best to visit around the time of services - 5pm is generally a good bet. The annual Lajkonik pageant, believed to have been initiated by the nuns, starts from outside the complex. Just up the hill from here is the Kosciol Salvatora (Church of the Saviour), one of the oldest in the city. Built on the site of a pagan Slav temple, excavations have revealed three earlier Romanesque churches, the oldest dating back to around 1000 AD. Continue up the hill and after fifteen minutes you'll reach the edge of Blonia , the largest green expanse in the city. Originally a marshy bog, the area was subsequently drained and has served all manner of uses, from medieval football field to the site of the huge open-air Masses during Pope John Paul II's politically charged visits to Poland in 1979, 1983 and 1987, each of which attracted as many as two million people.
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