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Around Wawel





The western section contains a set of foundations, all that remains of two Gothic churches (sw. Michala and sw. Jerzego, or St Michael's and St George's) raised in the fourteenth century, but demolished by the Austrians in the early 1800s, along with the surrounding buildings, and a well-tended garden. Beyond the ruins, it's worth taking in the view over the river from the terrace at the western edge of the hill. If you're feeling energetic, you could, instead of returning directly to town, clamber down the steps to the Smocza Jama (Dragon's Cave; May-Sept daily 10am-5pm; 3zl) at the foot of the hill - the legendary haunt of Krak and the medieval site of a fishermen's tavern, now guarded by an aggressive-looking bronze dragon that used to entertain tourists by belching a brief blast of fire every couple of minutes - although it has been remarkably quiet of late. It's still very popular with the school parties that descend here in droves from the castle, snapping up trinkets from the massed ranks of souvenir sellers. From the Dragon's Cave, a walk west along the bend of the river towards the Debnicki bridge is rewarded by an excellent view back over the castle. Alternatively, if you fancy a longer walk, stroll south along the riverbank a kilometre or so to Pilsudski Bridge and on into Kazimierz. Clearly visible across the other side of the river is the new Centrum Sztuki i Techniki Japonskiej Manggha at Konopickiej 26 (Manggha Japanese Cultural Centre; Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, 8zl) initiated by, among others, film-maker Andrzej Wajda, and opened amid much public fanfare in November 1994. A large, elegant building designed by Aratolsozaki of the Los Angeles Art Gallery and Barcelona Olympic Stadium fame, the centre houses the extensive collection of Japanese art amassed by Feliks Jasienski (aka Manggha), Poland's leading nineteenth-century Japanologist and art collector, notably a valuable collection of woodcuts. Downstairs, there's a large performance hall used mainly for

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concerts, part of a leading new cultural attraction in the city. The Centre's terrace cafe, a popular meeting place, offers a good view onto the river and Wawel Hill.

Finally, if the idea of a boat trip appeals, the barge moored by the riverbank, a little way south of the dragon, offers hour-long trips along the river throughout the day (May-Sept; last departure 5.30pm), and there are also trips to Bielany. Moored next to the barge is a floating restaurant and bar .


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9/5/2008 8:03:37 AM

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