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KAUNAS , 80km west of Vilnius and easily reached by bus or rail, is Lithuania's second city and seen by many Lithuanians as the true heart of their country. It served as provisional capital during the interwar period when Vilnius was part of Poland, and remains a major commercial and industrial centre. Nevertheless it's an attractive, easy-going city well served by road and rail, with enough sights to make it worth at least a full day's visit.
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