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The well-preserved little town of CESIS , 35km northeast of Sigulda, is considered by many Latvians to have an atmosphere as close to that of prewar small-town Latvia as it's possible to get. One of the oldest towns in the country, it's the former seat of the master of the Livonian order and was also a member of the Hanseatic League. More recently Cesis was the site of a crucial battle during the War of Independence, when a combined Latvian/Estonian force defeated the Iron Division of the German Landeswehr between June 19 and June 24, 1919. From the train and bus stations walk down Raunas iela to Vienibas Laukums, the town's main square. The attractive but run-down old town - a few narrow streets lined with flaking wooden buildings - lies to the south of here. On Rigas iela just south of the square the remains of the old town gates have been excavated. Nearby, on Skolas iela, is the thirteenth-century St John's Church (Sveta Jana Baznica), which contains the tombs of several masters of the Livonian order. East of the square are the remains of Cesis Castle (Cesu Pils) founded by the Knights of the Sword in 1209. Apart from a couple of towers, not much survives, but in the adjoining manor house you'll find a small regional history museum (Cesu Vestures; Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; 0.50Ls). More appealing perhaps are the grounds, with their small lake and Orthodox church.
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