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Unmistakeably the capital of Sicily, Palermo is fast, brash, loud and exciting. Here the Sicilian fusion of all things foreign - art, architecture, culture and lifestyle - exists at its most extreme: elegant Baroque cheek by jowl with Arabic cupolas, Byzantine street markets swamping medieval warrens, Vespas parked against Spanish palazzi . It's a fascinating place to be, as much for just strolling and consuming as for its specific attractions. But Palermo's monuments, when you can get to them through the tight streets and swirling traffic, are the equal of anything on the mainland: the city's unique series of Baroque and Arabic-Norman churches, the unparalleled mosaic work and excellent museums all stand much wider comparison. You could easily spend a week in Palermo without ever leaving the city's limits. But make time for at least one day-trip: the capital has several traditional bolt-holes if you want a break from the bustle, most obviously the heights of Monte Pellegrino and the fine beach at Mondello . If your interest has been fired by the city's great Norman heritage, you won't want to miss the famous medieval cathedral of Monreale , just a few kilometres west; or you might like to take one of the year-round ferries or hydrofoils to Ustica , 60km northwest of Palermo - a tiny volcanic island with enough impressive grottoes and coastal walks to occupy any remaining time.
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