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The largest town in Sardinia's northeastern wedge, Olbia owes its recent phenomenal growth to the huge influx of tourists bound for one of the Mediterranean's loveliest stretches of coast, the Costa Smeralda , whose five-star development has transformed the economy of the entire island. Elsewhere on the coast it's still possible to have fun without stacks of money: there are miles of shoreline still undeveloped and a profusion of minor islands, over sixty in all, which you can explore on various boat tours. A daily ferry service from Palau links the biggest islands of Maddalena and Caprera , while further west Santa Teresa di Gallura boasts some superb coves and beaches. This indented northern shore fringes the region of Gallura , whose raw red and wind-sculpted granite mountains imbue the area with its unique edge-of-the-wilderness appeal. There is a hidden world within here that most tourists never discover, thickly forested with the cork-oaks which, after tourism, provide most of Gallura's revenue.
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