The closest of northern Lazio's lakes to Rome, Lago di Bracciano fills an enormous volcanic crater, a smooth, roughly circular expanse of water that's popular - but not too popular - with Romans keen to escape the summer heat of the city. It's nothing spectacular, with few real sights and a landscape of rather plain, rolling countryside, but its shores are fairly peaceful even on summer Sundays, and you can eat excellent lake fish in its restaurants.
The lake's main settlement is the town of BRACCIANO on the western shore, about half an hour by train from Rome San Pietro (direction Viterbo). It's a small town, dominated by the imposing Castello Orsini-Odelscalchi (April-Sept Tues-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat & Sun 9am-12.30pm & 3-7.30pm; Oct-March Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat & Sun 10am-noon & 3-5pm; L11,000/?5.68), a late-fifteenth-century structure now privately owned by the Odelscalchi family, which was the last of the archery (as opposed to artillery) castles built in Europe and a handsome structure by any standards. The outer walls, now mostly disappeared, contained the rectangular piazza of the medieval town; nowadays it's unfortunately rather run-down, its interior home to rusting suits of armour and faded frescoes, but the view from the ramparts is worth the admission price alone. The
best place to swim in the lake is from the beach at Via Argenti, below Bracciano town. You can rent a boat and picnic offshore; and the nearby trattorias are good and inexpensive. The shore between Trevignano and Anguillara also boasts fine swimming spots, as well as good restaurants in both of the towns. One of the best is the Casina Bianca , Via della Rena 100 (closed Mon), in Trevignano, which is inexpensive and serves fresh fish on a terrace overlooking the lake.
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