|
Basilicata's regional capital, POTENZA , has suffered more than most southern towns from the effects of earthquake and war, which have robbed it of much of its historical heritage. There is still considerable restoration work in progress, and despite the dust in summer continuing improvements have helped to make Potenza a lively, go-ahead place and an excellent base for visiting some of the smaller towns and villages of inland Basilicata, most of which are conveniently situated on the main routes to - or from - the outside world. The Italian mainland's highest provincial capital, Potenza is built on a spur between two valleys, and presents an unpromising vista from afar, seemingly consisting of nothing but characterless modern blocks surrounded by unsightly and polluting industrial works. The town is also a trial for drivers, its confusing one-way streets clogged with traffic and almost devoid of parking spaces (make sure you're not parked illegally - tickets and fines are freely distributed). But perseverance pays off, for the animated centre, focused on the narrow, partly pedestrianized Via Pretoria , is a maze of alleys and small, sequestered squares, well stocked with bars and restaurants and at its best during the nightly passeggiata. The most important sight here, off the main Piazza Prefettura (also known as Piazza Pagano), is the church of San Francesco, which contains a Byzantine-style icon of the Madonna del Terremoto and an elaborate sixteenth-century tomb. In the modern districts spread out below, the only compelling attraction is the Museo Archeologico Provinciale (Mon, Wed & Sun 9am-1pm, Tues, Thurs & Sat 9am-1pm & 4-7pm; free) in Rione Santa Maria (north of the centre), home to the region's most important collection of finds from the prehistory of Lucania, and some good ceramics, terracottas and statuettes from Greek Metapontum. Potenza has three train stations , all connected but not all serving the same routes. The central Potenza Citta station has a line to Acerenza and Gravina in Puglia, and links with Potenza Inferiore, on the other side of town, which in turn has trains to Rionero, Melfi, Ferrandina (for Matera), Metaponto, Taranto, Foggia and Salerno; Stazione Superiore in Rione Santa Maria is a stop on the line to Rionero, Melfi and Foggia. The independent Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane (FAL) line links all three and also serves Bari and the Potenza area. Drivers would be well advised to park below the centre around Viale Marconi, from where escalators and lifts connect with Via del Popolo, a few steps away from Piazza Prefettura. Most buses leaving for destinations within Basilicata leave from Piazza Crispi; buses for Salerno, Naples and Rome leave from Piazza Bologna. Frequent city buses connect the modern districts with Via Vaccaro and Corso Umberto in the city centre (tickets from tabacchi and bars; L1000/?0.52), as do several lifts (free) and rickety stairways. There is a tourist office at Via Alianelli 4, off Piazza Prefettura (Mon-Fri 9am-1pm & 4.30-7pm, Sat 9am-12.30pm; tel 0971.21.812). Central accommodation includes the small and basic Europa , at the bottom of Via Pretoria (tel 0971.34.014; up to L60,000/?30.99), and the rather gloomy Miramonti at Via Caserma Lucania 30 (tel 0971.22.987; L60,000-90,000/?30.99-46.48), whose rooms are adequate though charmless. For a little more comfort, pay extra at the Tourist , Via Vescovado 4 (tel 0971.25.955; L120,000-150,000/?61.98-77.47), a big place with good facilities at the eastern end of Via Pretoria, below Piazza Bonaventura. If these are full, there's the very ordinary Galgano at Via Vaccaro 428 (tel 0971.52.125; L60,000-90,000/?30.99-46.48), a brief bus ride or a thirty-minute walk from the centre and difficult to find: it's signposted from a roundabout at the bottom of Via Vaccaro (from Potenza Inferiore station, turn left and keep walking for twenty minutes). When you want to eat you can do so well and cheaply in the brick-vaulted Trattoria al Duomo in Via Serrao (closed Sun), just around the corner from Potenza's cathedral (to the right of it), which serves excellent pasta dishes, including a delicious orecchiette alla boscaiola (pasta with a rich sauce of mushrooms and ham). Alternatively, the Taverna Oraziana on Via Flacco is a pleasant, casual place, occupying yet another cellar at the bottom of steps at the western end of Via Pretoria (closed Wed, and Sun evening). On the northern edge of the old town, the Due Torri , on the street of the same name, is a more upmarket place, though the prices are certainly reasonable (closed Sun). Potenza has a few good pubs : the Barracuda , in Via Caserma Lucania (closed daytime and Mon), near Piazza Matteotti, serving panini and other snacks , and Goblin's , right on the central Piazza Prefettura, which serves Irish draught beer and also makes a good breakfast stop for its cornetti and chocolate faggotti . Another good drinking-spot, popular with a younger crowd, is Carpe Diem , round the corner from the Barracuda at Via XX Settembre 27, enjoying a view over the valley. The management here also operates Potenza's main venue for live music , located in the suburbs; just check the posters or ask for details of what's on.
Your Tip for Potenza
Help other backpackers! Write your own guides and backpacking tips to Potenza - they will appear instantly on this page - Please only write a tip/guide to Potenza - visit the main Potenza forum to ask a question!
Please do not post links to your site here (they won't work) - please use the Potenza webguide section below! Thanks.
|
