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BRAY , originally a Victorian resort developed in the 1850s when the railway was extended south of Dun Laoghaire, welcomes hordes of visitors from Dublin at the weekends. With a seafront full of hotels, video arcades, B&Bs and fast-food shops, Bray has lost some of its genteel charm. Nevertheless it does boast a superb sand and shingle beach and there are excellent walks to be had up around Bray Head, a knob of rock pushing into the sea, where a massive cross, erected to mark the holy year of 1950, serves as a reminder that you are still in Catholic Europe. In the shadow of the head are a few secluded coves where you can swim. Besides its fine setting, Bray's chief claim to fame is that James Joyce lived here from 1889 to 1891. The main visitor attraction, the Bray heritage centre (June-Aug Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 10am-1pm & 2-4pm; Sept-May Mon-Fri 9.30am-1pm & 2-4pm, Sat 10am-1pm & 2-4pm; tel 01/286 6796; GBP3.50/?4.44), is currently undergoing major renovation work, while details have not yet been finalized, the newly enhanced displays are likely to focus on local history and include a folklore room and also a presentation on the engineer William Dargan (1799-1867), the man who brought the railway to the town, and who is thus considered the founder of modern Bray. You'll also find the tourist office (same hours) here. The other attraction of note in Bray, is the National Sea-Life Centre (daily 10am-6pm; GBP5.50/?6.98), a large aquarium with a great range of sea-life, including sharks and the blue ring octopus. Bicycle rental in Bray is available from Bray Sports Centre, 8 Main St (tel 01/286 3046; GBP10/?12.70 per day), and horse riding can be arranged with Brennanstown Riding School (tel 01/286 3778). Outside Bray, Killruddery House and its garden are worth seeing (gardens open April-Sept daily 1-5pm; house May, June & Sept daily 1-5pm; GBP4.50/?5.70, gardens only GBP3/?3.80), and are reached by bus #184 from Bray. Laid out in the seventeenth century, Killruddery's gardens are among the earliest that survive in Ireland. Home of the Brabazon family since 1618, the house was remodelled by Richard and William Morrison in the 1820s.
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