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For centuries, the town of CARLOW was an Anglo-Norman stronghold at the edge of an otherwise fiercely Gaelic county. As such, it has a bloody history, with its most terrible battle during the 1798 Rebellion, when over six hundred rebels were slaughtered. Today there's nothing to suggest its former frontier status, and this small, busy town is distinguished only by a fine Classical courthouse with a portico modelled on the Parthenon, an elegant Regency Gothic cathedral - one of the first Catholic churches to be built after Catholic Emancipation in 1829 - and the remains of the once proud Norman castle , which lie beside the river at the west end of town. Otherwise, there's plenty on local military, religious and folk history in the museum , housed in the town hall (Tues-Fri 11am-5pm, Sat & Sun 2-5pm; GBP1/?1.27). You can get more local information, including a free map and historical guide, from Carlow's tourist office at the lower end of the large car park off Kennedy Ave (May-Sept Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm; Oct-April Mon-Fri 10am-5.30pm; tel 0503/31554). Bike rental is available during the summer from A.E. Coleman, 19 Dublin St (tel 0503/31273; GBP5/?6.35 per day) and you can rent a Canadian canoe from Charlie Horan (tel 0509/31307 or 087/529700; two-person canoe GBP30/?38.09 per day) to paddle down the River Barrow. Those interested in getting to grips with the intricacies of celtic brewing techniques , should book in for a tour of The Carlow Brewing Company, lodged up beside the train station. The beers produced here are based on traditional Celtic recipes and include a wheat beer, red ale and, of course, stout. The short tour explains the process and offers the chance to sample a glass or two; it's best booked the day before as opening times vary (tel 0503/34356; GBP3/?3.81). B&Bs in Carlow include Westlow , Green Lane (tel 0503/43964; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79) and Redsetter House , 14 Dublin St (tel 0503/41848; GBP40-55/?50.79-69.84), both of which are a good standard. Several more accommodation options are out on Kilkenny Road; one of the best of these is Barrowville Town House (tel 0503/43324; GBP40-55/?50.79-69.84), an elegant Regency building set in a mature garden, just a short walk from the town centre. Nearby lies Ottersholt Riverside Lodge (IHH; tel 0503/30404), a rambling old hostel offering budget accommodation in dorms and twin rooms (under GBP26/?33.01), and camping down by the river. You'll find the best places to eat and drink on Tullow Street: Tully's is an appealing bar and a handy spot for lunch, and Buzz's , across the street, offers hearty home-cooked lunches and manages to combine laid-back stylishness with a no-nonsense lived-in atmosphere. Coffee shops serving light lunches, also in Tullow Street, include Bradbury's and Muffins . Both Buzz's (late closing Thurs-Sat till 1am) and Tully's are lively spots during the evening, and Teach Dolmen , at 76 Tullow St is the best place to catch impromptu traditional music sessions on Thursdays. Two miles east out of town on the R726 road is arguably County Carlow's most impressive sight: the Browneshill dolmen . It's enormous, possibly the largest Neolithic stone formation in Europe, dating from 2500 BC, and the burial place of a local king or prince. Seven miles south of Carlow on the N9 lies LEIGHLINBRIDGE , a pretty riverside village. A good place to stop for lunch here is The Lord Bagenal Inn : an old bar of some character popular for its bar food and family atmosphere.
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