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Nine miles west of Dunmore East, TRAMORE caters for a different type of holidaymaker and a different kind of bank balance. It's a busy, popular seaside resort serving families from Waterford and Cork, and has plenty of amusements, caravans and a huge sandy beach. B&Bs are concentrated along Tivoli Road: try the hospitable Sea Court (tel 051/386244; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79) or the smart Tivoli House (tel 051/390208; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79). O'Shea's is probably the liveliest and most popular bar in Tramore, with plenty of MOR bands and good bar food. The wild and splendid coast west of Tramore is one of tussocky grassland, hidden coves and sheer cliffs. Really just a handful of houses, ANNESTOWN , six miles from Tramore, is famous for being the only village in Ireland without a pub. It's said that there were once numerous bars catering for the local barracks, but that such was the brawling, the local landowner decided that enough was enough and took away all the licences. There's a cosy B&B at Wee Bluin (tel 051/396344; GBP26-33/?33.01-41.90), or you can enjoy fabulous views at Annestown House , a fine early nineteenth-century building where you can expect cosy log fires and excellent breakfasts (tel 051/396160; GBP70-90/?88.88-114.28). Seven miles further along the coast you'll come to the neat, pretty village of STRADBALLY . A road leads one mile from here through deep deciduous woods to the fabulous Stradbally Cove , a secluded sandy beach flanked by craggy oak and ash-covered slopes. Rather more popular, CLONEA STRAND , four and a half miles further along the coast and two miles east of Dungarvan, is a broad sandy beach with plenty of space for the holidaymakers at Casey's Caravan and Camping Park at its west end. For more comfort, try the nearby Clonea Strand Hotel (tel 058/42416, www.amireland.com/clonea ; GBP90-110/?114.28-139.67), the pool and bar of which are also open to non-residents. DUNGARVAN , the major coastal town of County Waterford, has a confident, buoyant air and enjoys a magnificent setting. A wonderful view over the grand, broad bay opens up as you descend to the town, the open heights around topped by pine forests that seem to have been poured on like thick syrup. The tourist office on the Square (June-Aug Mon-Fri 9am-9pm, Sat 9am-1pm & 2-6pm, Sun 2-5pm; rest of year Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-1pm & 2-6pm; tel 058/41741) can help with accommodation and you'll find some decent pubs and restaurants on the square and along the quays. You may well come across first rate traditional music too: Bridgie Terries at a spot known as The Pike, four miles out of town on the N25 towards Waterford, is especially recommended. On the whole, though, the area of greater interest and charm lies immediately to the west.
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