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DUNMORE EAST settles snugly between small, chunky sandstone cliffs topped by masses of rambling golden gorse. The main street follows a higgledy-piggledy contour from the safe, sandy cove beside which the east village sits, towards a busy harbour full of the rippled reflections of brightly coloured fishing boats and cradled by the crooked finger of the harbour wall. From here, the ruddy sandstone cliffs make bold ribs around the coast. This is still a very active fishing harbour, but has also cashed in on its picturesqueness, with obviously new-thatched houses sneaking in alongside the originals. Quaint as it is, Dunmore East has become very much a playground for affluent Waterford people, and there are three large hotels to cater for them - including the Haven (tel 051/383150; GBP70-90/?88.88-114.28). More moderately priced accommodation is offered by a number of B&Bs , including Church Villa (tel 051/383390; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79) and Copper Beech (tel 051/383187; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), both on Dock Road. For seaviews stay at Carraig Liath on Harbour Road (tel 051/383273; GBP40-55/?50.79-69.84). For camping , there's Strand Caravan Park (June to mid-Sept; tel 051/383174). Eating is expensive here, and the cafe down by the beach is just about the only place where you'll get a cheap meal. Good pub food is available at The Ocean Hotel , by the sandy beach in the east village (tel 051/383136). The Strand Inn , also beside the beach, has a very good fish restaurant and serves good, more moderately priced bar food; while the upmarket Ship restaurant serves excellent meals (tel 051/383141). For canoeing and wind-surfing contact The Adventure Centre (tel 051/383783). The Centra supermarket on Dock Road operates a bureau de change .
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