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The delightful village of ARDMORE , fourteen miles southwest of Dungarvan is steeped in history and full of character. The fifth century saw the arrival here of St Declan, at least thirty years before St Patrick arrived in Ireland, and the surrounding area of Old Parish is so called because it's supposedly the oldest parish in Ireland. In Ardmore itself, a medieval cathedral and round tower stand on the site of the saint's original monastic foundation, commanding stunning views over Ardmore Bay. The long, low twelfth-century cathedral has massive buttresses, its stoutly rounded doors and windows confirming the proud - albeit now roofless - Romanesque solidity of the building, while the slender round tower, tall and fine with a conical roof, stands alongside in poignant contrast. Inside, there are stones with early ogham inscriptions, but the most exceptional carvings are on the west external wall. Here, Romanesque arcading, originally from an earlier building, has been set beneath the window, with boldly carved scenes showing the weighing of souls, the fall of man, the judgement of Solomon and the adoration of the magi: truly impressive, and unique in quality and design. St Declan's Oratory , supposedly his burial site, also stands in the graveyard. Earth from the saint's grave is believed to protect against disease. The village down below - busy in summer - consists of a pleasant row of cottages, a few pubs, a shop and a handful of cafes, with a couple of excellent sandy beaches nearby. Myth has it that when St Declan arrived here from Wales, his bell and vestments were magically carried by the large stone that now sits on the beach . This would explain why the boulder is completely different geologically from the surrounding land - though the Ice Age seems a more likely, if comparatively mundane, explanation. Another improbable tale is that crawling under the stone cures rheumatism. It looks unlikely that a fit person could squirm under it, let alone an invalid. Walking through the village to the east, up the hill you come to a path which leads to the ancient St Declan's Well and a steeply gabled oratory . It's an atmospheric spot, with fresh water springing beside three primitive stone crosses where pilgrims used to wash, and a stone chair. From here, there's a fine walk around the headland along rocky cliffs for five miles or so, as far as Whiting Bay, a quiet spot with a small sandy beach; alternatively there's a waymarked path that takes you over three miles and brings you back down by the round tower. For longer rambling you can take St Declan's Way , a 55-mile route which links Ardmore with Cashel in County Tipperary. Ardmore has one, small hotel , The Round Tower (tel 024/94494, www.waterfordtourism.org ; GBP55-70/?69.84-88.88); B&B can be had at Byron Lodge (tel 024/94157; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), and there's an excellent little hostel , Ardmore Beach Hostel on Main Street (tel 024/94501), with dorms and family rooms. The caravan and camping site is just beside the beach, and there's a laundry on Main Street. The welcoming Paddy Mac's pub does good bar food , and has occasional traditional music sessions during the summer. For inexpensive but filling meals there's the cosy Cup and Saucer cafe; nearby The White Horses Restaurant (May-Sept daily, except Mon lunch; Oct-April Fri-Sun only; tel 024/94040) serves good-value lunches and evening meals.
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