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Typical of the outstanding beauty of inland County Waterford is the stretch of the Blackwater Valley around Cappoquin, 38 miles west of Waterford city and 19 miles north of Ardmore, where the river makes a sharp westward turn towards County Cork, describing as it goes the southerly limit of the Knockmealdown Mountains . CAPPOQUIN itself is prettily situated on a wooded hillside overlooking the river. Despite this beautiful location, the village seems strangely neglected, and there's little attempt to cater for visitors beyond a few B&Bs used mainly by a handful of fishermen at holiday times: if you want to stay , try the friendly Riverview House (tel 058/54073; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), which is a good, central option. You'll get inexpensive home-cooked food at The Saddlers Teashop (Mon-Sat 8am-6pm), including marvellous breads baked in Barrons' Victorian ovens next door. Richmond House (tel 058/54278; over GBP130/?165.07), on the way to Lismore, is the place for a more extravagant meal (dinner from about GBP27/?34.28) and luxurious B&B. Although there's little to detain you in the village, the surrounding countryside is lovely. Walk half a mile east, take the right fork by the statue of the Virgin, and you come to the Glenshelane river walk . This follows the minor River Glenshelane through its deep valley banked by pine trees and, after about three miles, brings you to Mount Melleray , a Cistercian monastery that welcomes visitors in search of solitude. The trail eventually opens out, affording great views of the Knockmealdown and Galtee mountains of Tipperary. The walk's a good taster for the varied terrain of the major long-distance walk just north of here in County Tipperary, the East Munster Way .
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