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Tucked in Tipperary's southeast corner, at the foot of the mountain slopes of neighbouring County Waterford, CARRICK-ON-SUIR may well be the first place you see in Tipperary, a slight country town raised a cut above the rest by what is perhaps Ireland's most beautiful Elizabethan mansion: similar examples abound in England but are a rarity here. Set at the very eastern end of the main street, Ormond Castle (guided tours mid-June to Sept daily 9.30am-6.30pm; GBP2/?2.54; Heritage Card) was built by Thomas, tenth Earl of Ormond ("Black Tom"), in anticipation of a visit from Queen Elizabeth I - and tributes to her are incorporated in the decoration throughout: above all in a fresco over the entrance way and in the superb stucco work of the long gallery. A stunning mansion, with mullioned windows running the length of the building, it's the only major example in Ireland of a completely unfortified dwelling to date from the sixteenth century. It adjoins the remains of an earlier castle built in 1309; the two rectangular towers, currently undergoing renovation, date from the mid-fifteenth century. There's a collection of magnificent royal charters here, too: the oldest dates from 1661 and granted James Butler the title of Duke of Ormond. Some historians also claim that Anne Boleyn was born here. Regardless of the mansion's splendours, however, it is as the birthplace of the champion cyclist Sean Kelly that the town is most proud - and the tiny main square at the west end of the main street has been renamed in his honour. Tourist information (Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am-5pm, though weekend opening hours may vary in winter; tel 051/640200) can be found in the heritage centre, just off Main Street. Accommodation is fairly limited: in the centre of town are The Bell and Salmon Arms Hotel , 95-97 Main St (tel 051/645555; GBP55-70/?69.84-88.88), and Fatima House B&B, John Street (tel 051/640298; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79). There's also B&B at Hillcrest , (tel 051/640847; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), a mile out on the N24 opposite the Sean Kelly Sports Centre. You can camp at Carrick-on-Suir Caravan and Camping Park , Ballyrichard, Kilkenny Road (closed Nov-Feb; tel 051/640461), one mile out of town. Cyclists heading for the hostel outside Clonmel are better off leaving the main road at Carrick-on-Suir and heading across country via Rathgormuck. You'll find good bar food at The Carraig Hotel on Main Street (daily till 9.30pm). As for entertainment , The Bell and Salmon Arms Hotel has a bright modern bar attracting a young crowd, with open Irish sessions (Mon & Wed), live rock and pop bands (Sun), and discos (Fri & Sat in summer). For a quiet pint, try the bar of the Carraig Hotel . Five miles north of Carrick, AHENNY has two beautiful high crosses in its graveyard. They're thought to be eighth century, and are excellent examples of the transitional style between the early Christian plain shaft crosses and the highly ornate didactic crosses of Monasterboice and Kells.
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