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If you're cycling or driving north towards Thurles you might also think of taking in Ballynahow Castle , a circular castle tower built by the Purcell family in the sixteenth century. To get there from Holy Cross, take the road directly opposite the Protestant church, not the Thurles route (even though the signpost says so). From Thurles itself, it's out on the Nenagh road, right at the Jet petrol station, and after another mile the castle stands next to a farmhouse - Ballynahow Castle Farm where you can pick up the key; the farm also offers B&B from March to October (tel 0504/21297; GBP40-55/?50.79-69.84). You enter the castle at the lowest of its five storeys, the circular design giving the feel of entering into an igloo, with the corbelled roof curving round almost to the floor. There are many little rooms hidden within the walls and, although undecorated and entirely bare (and quite dark), most of it is in an excellent state of preservation and very atmospheric.
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