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If, instead of taking the Lough Arrow route from Collooney, you follow the N17 southwest for three miles, you can make a diversion along the R293 to the small market town of BALLYMOTE , five miles further south. Its fourteenth-century castle, built by Richard de Burgo (the "Red Earl of Ulster"), was once the strongest in Connacht but has associations with major defeats - it was O'Donnell's before he lost at the Battle of Kinsale, and it was James II's possession before he lost at the Boyne. The place has an important and ancient literary connection: it was here, in about 1400, that the Book of Ballymote was compiled, giving the key to the geometrical ogham letters that are formed on many standing stones of the fourth and fifth centuries; the name comes from the townland of Ogham, outside nearby Tobercurry, which has plenty of examples of them. Ballymote makes a good centre for both angling and rath-spotting: the low, undramatic countryside all around is covered in ancient ring forts. For moderately priced accommodation you could try The Millhouse (tel 071/83449; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), a very pleasant B&B. The most stylish place to stay in the vicinity, however, is Temple House (closed Feb & March; tel 071/83329, www.templehouse.ie ; GBP70-90/?88.88-114.28), three miles from here on the shores of the lake; take the left fork off the Collooney end of town, and the house is near the N17 towards Tobercurry. Founded by the Knights Templar and expanded in 1560, this is one of the grandest and earliest Anglo-Irish houses ever built in Ireland - the bulk of the house was grandly refurbished in 1864 - on a 950-acre estate, with 97 rooms, five of which are for B&B guests. They also do a good dinner for around GBP20/?25.40. In the village, The Stone Park Restaurant (tel 071/83372) serves a good range of inexpensive meals daily, and the village sports a couple of nice old bars, including Hayden's which has set dancing (Tues in winter).
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