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CUSHENDALL lies at the head of three of the nine Glens of Antrim, a delightfully understated village, its charming colour-washed buildings grouped together on a spectacular shore. The red sandstone tower at the main crossroads was built in 1817 by one Francis Turnley, an official of the East India Company, as "a place of confinement for idlers and rioters". Now it's owned by the art terrorist pop band, the KLF. Down the road on Mill Street, sharing premises with the Glens of Antrim Historical Society, is Cushendall's tourist office (Tues-Sat 10am-1pm; tel 028/2177 1180), where you can check for details of dancing and traditional music in local pubs: McCollam's , known to all as Johnny Joe's , also on Mill Street, is not to be missed, sessions usually taking place on Tuesday and Friday. Another great session takes place every Wednesday at The Skerry Inn in Newtowncrumlin, eight miles southwest off the Ballymena road. Cushendall itself comes alive during the Heart of the Glens festival in the middle of August, one of the area's oldest events, replete with traditional music, sporting events and much merriment. Eating options are limited to Gillan's friendly cafe on Mill Street during the day, while Harry's on the same street offers wholesome, filling meals in both its downstairs bar and restaurant upstairs. Cushendall is probably the best base for exploring the Glens of Antrim, and accordingly it's well provided with accommodation . For B&B, try The Meadows , 81 Coast Rd (tel 028/2177 1130; cdda@antrim-glens.demon.co.uk ; GBP33-40), friendly and spacious with disabled access too, or the welcoming Cullentra House , 16 Cloghs Rd (tel 028/2177 1762; GBP26-33), a mile northwest of town off the Cushendun road, with its wonderful views. At the time of writing the future of the HINI youth hostel was under threat, so it's advisable to call ahead before taking the half-mile uphill trek to Layde Road (head along Shore Street from the tower, go left at the fork, and look out for the youth hostel sign on the wall) (open March to Dec 23; Jan & Feb advance bookings only; tel 028/2177 1344). The Glenville Caravan Park (March-Oct; tel 028/2177 1520) is further up the road, and the municipal campsite stands on the hill to the north of the town (April-Sept; tel 028/2177 1699). You can rent bikes from the Ardclinis Activity Centre, 11 High St (tel 028/2177 1340), which also arranges all manner of outdoor pursuits. Fishing licences are available from O'Neill's Country Sports on Mill Street.
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