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Much of the coastline of counties Antrim and Derry is as spectacular as anything you'll find in Ireland and, consequently, unlike other parts of the North, it has always attracted an abundance of tourists. On fine days, the Mull of Kintyre and the islands of Islay and Jura are clearly visible across the water, and much of the predominantly Protestant population derives originally from Scotland. County Antrim's major attractions are the nine Glens of Antrim in the northeast corner, green fertile fingers probing inland from high cliffs, almost immediately followed by the weird geometry of the Giant's Causeway . Along this part of the coast the Ulster and Moyle Ways offer great opportunities for short walks and long hikes, and pass some wonderful deserted beaches. As you follow the coast road (A2) further west, you'll come to two of the North's great seaside resorts, Portrush and, across the border in County Derry, Portstewart , attractive holiday spots with sandy beaches and waves perfect for surfing. Modern Derry city sprawls around the old steep, walled town and spills over the banks of the River Foyle. A border town, with a substantial Catholic majority, it was traditionally the starting-point for emigrants from Donegal and around on their journey to the Americas. Derry is a more alternative city than Belfast and its forward-looking council has encouraged the arts with great success. If you're not driving, transport around the coastline can be a problem. Buses are infrequent, although there are summer specials to the various sights. Hitchhiking , though, is easy enough hereabouts or you can take the train which cuts a less interesting inland route through bland farming country. Trains from Belfast run to both Larne and Portrush, but most of the stops along the way to Derry are at some fairly grim inland towns: Antrim, Ballymena and Coleraine . The other route inland is the A6 road from Antrim to Derry, passing through and near some of the Plantation towns, and ascending steeply through the northeastern fringe of the Sperrins by means of the Glenshane Pass . If transport is somewhat scarce, then at least finding accommodation is usually easy. There are some fine hotels and plenty of unpretentious, reasonably-priced B&Bs where you're generally assured of a friendly welcome and a cup of tea. Hostels are growing in number and improving in quality and there's a fair smattering of campsites. Keep in mind, though, that this is where Northerners also holiday, so accommodation may be hard to come by in July and August and at festival times.
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