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Coming from either direction, from the Bog of Allen to the east or Boora Bog to the west, the bright lights and solid buildings of TULLAMORE , astride the Grand Canal, seem welcoming. The town's Victorian ambience makes it look more English than Irish, a result of moving the capital from Philipstown to Tullamore in 1834, following decades in which the British pushed the boundaries of King's County ever further westwards. Tullamore is worth a short visit but has none of the attractions of nearby Birr which makes a much better base for exploring the county. One aspect of its history that Tullamore is attempting to exploit is its whiskey, Tullamore Dew, which was once distilled here - though the factory has since moved to Clonmel. The story behind the smoothest of Irish whiskies is celebrated in a heritage centre , which also houses the tourist office, on Bury Quay (May-Sept Mon-Sat 9.00am-6pm, Sun 12-5pm; Oct-April Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 12-5pm; GBP3.50/?4.44). The centre is set in a fine, converted warehouse and has a pleasant basement bar and cafe, though the exhibition itself is painfully dull and doesn't justify the entrance fee, despite the fact that the price includes a complimentary whiskey. The main reason for visiting Tullamore, however, is Charleville Forest Castle (April-May Sat & Sun 2-5pm; June-Sept Wed-Sun 11am-4pm; Oct-March by appointment on tel 0506/21279; GBP3.50/?4.44), an extraordinary Georgian-Gothic mansion built in 1779 to the designs of Francis Johnston. The surrounding estate is wonderfully spooky, with a Gothic element suggestive of a horror movie - castellated turrets, shady trees and clinging ivy - while the house in the centre of the estate, surrounded by a second wall topped by urns, is a secretive, eerie place. With its splendid old trees, leafy walks and even a grotto, the place has plenty of diversions. To get there, take the Birr road out of Tullamore (the N52), and Charleville's gates are on the right as you leave the town - about ten minutes' walk.
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