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Western Offaly is dominated by the bogs of Allen and Boora and the Shannon , the first two virtually impassable, the other for centuries a means of transportation and communication. Exploring the esker ridges (raised paths above the bog) of this drowsy, bog-and-water landscape has a quiet appeal if you hit good weather. Equally appealing, and increasingly popular, are boating trips, with visitors following the gentle flow of the meandering Shannon downstream to Clonmacnoise, Banagher and further west to the sea. It's excellent cycling country too, and, although they may be a little difficult for the untrained eye to identify, the romantic ruins that dot the landscape offer plenty of food for the imagination, and following roads that have for centuries been the only passages through the bog has a resonance of its own. Although the monastery at Clonmacnois has made it onto the bus-tour itinerary, visitors to it generally climb straight back on board their buses and head for the west. In general the area remains pleasantly unfashionable and untouristed. That said, there's an increasing range and number of places to stay in the area as the Shannon-based tourist industry expands, with the best base located in the relaxed Georgian town of Banagher , basking on the banks of the river. Alternatively, you could stay in the busier town of Birr , further south, with its elegant Georgian architecture and impressive Big House .
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