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The coastal road east from the Ceide Fields to Ballycastle is as spectacular as any on Ireland's west coast. BALLYCASTLE , in the wide valley of the River Ballinglen, is a tranquil village of just one broad, sloping street, with good swimming beaches. The tourist office , which will be able to offer detailed advice on walking nearby, is based just below the church (Mon-Sat 10.30am-5pm, Sun 1-4pm; closed for long lunches). There are a handful of relaxed bars - try the tiny Lavell's , or Barlett's . The best restaurant around is Doonfeeny House (tel 096/43092) which does five-course meals, while for accommodation try the warm hospitality of The Hawthorns (tel 096/43148; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79) a ten-minute drive from Ballycastle.
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