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The land between Louisburgh and Westport is dominated by the strange, perfectly conical silhouette of Croagh (pronounced Croak ) Patrick , which at 2513ft is by far the highest mountain in the immediate area. The sandy beaches of the shore peter out at Bertra Strand, just short of Murrisk and the ruins of Murrisk Abbey , a house of Augustinian canons set up on the shore of Clew Bay by the O'Malley family in 1457, less than a hundred years before Henry VIII's dissolution of the monasteries. Looking out over the hummocky islets of the bay, the abbey is the best starting point if you want to climb the mountain. On the landward side, a little saint's head carved in the wall peers glumly up the slope - it's a very tough climb . Still, there's a surprise when you get to the top. The summit isn't conical, as it looks from the bottom, but forms a flat plateau, with a little chapel and a breathtaking view: on a good day you can see right from the Twelve Bens in the south to the mountains of Achill Island in the north, the Nephin Begs east of the island and on to the Slieve League in Donegal. At the foot of the mountain on the shore side of the road is the national monument to an nGorta Mor (the Great Famine); the bronze sculpture, by John Behan, is of a coffin ship headed for America, its rigging made up of the skeletons of the starving and is particularly evocative when lit up at night. For accommodation in the area follow the road beside the statue to Ceann Cursa B&B , Pier Rd (tel 098/64864; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), which has family rooms and does good vegetarian breakfasts. A fine place to stop for refreshments after a climb up the mountain, barefoot or not, is Glosh House , a restaurant overlooking the sea and specializing in seafood and vegetarian dishes. It also does Irish breakfasts and sustaining afternoon teas.
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