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More than with most places in the west, you need good weather for ACHILL ISLAND . Although it's the part of County Mayo most developed for tourism, this means no more than a few hotels, B&Bs and hostels, and if it rains there's simply nothing to do but pack up and head for Westport or Sligo. Because of a government tax allowance scheme Achill has been blighted by a plethora of tourist developments many of which are modern "cottages" that take no account of traditional architecture or landscape. Against this, however, there's the magnificence of the mountains and cliffs, and in good weather, Achill can be magical, especially for campers who can live at the water's edge. The island's sandy beaches never seem overcrowded, although they attract plenty of (mostly Irish) tourists in high summer. Inland, the bogs and mountains are dotted with ancient relics - standing stones, stone circles and dolmens. The largest of the Irish islands (although it's connected to the mainland by a road bridge), Achill was Irish-speaking until very recently. Tourism here seems to have had an almost entirely beneficial effect, economically at least: before its arrival, islanders subsisted to a very great extent on remittances sent home by emigrant relatives.
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