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PORTUMNA , on the north shore of Lough Derg, is a traditional market town and Shannon crossing point, happy to be cashing in on the upmarket tourism that drifts its way on the lough cruisers, yet still retaining a friendly and unpretentious character. Close to the shore stands the ruin of Portumna Priory , for the most part a fifteenth-century Dominican building, though its delicately arched cloisters are built around the remains of a much earlier Cistercian foundation. Nearby Portumna Castle (Mon-Sat 9.30am-6.30pm; GBP1.50/?1.90), a fine, early seventeenth-century mansion with Jacobean gables (something of a rarity in Ireland), is currently undergoing renovation. Nobody minds if you take a look via the fields to the rear. The castle's estate is a wildlife sanctuary with a large herd of fallow deer. There's a tourist office (June-Sept daily 9am-9pm; tel 0509/41644) at the entrance to the grounds of the castle and you'll find several good B&Bs in the centre: try Mrs Ryan's Auvergne Lodge , Dominick St (tel 0509/41138; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), Mrs Finlay's Cnoc Rua , St Brendan's Rd (tel 0509/41197; GBP40-55/?50.79-69.84), or the Dolan's Shannon Villa , Bridge Rd (tel 0509/41269; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79). The town's hostel , Galway Shannonside Hostel , St. Brigid's Rd (tel 0509/41032; GBP26-33/?33.01-41.90) is in a restored nineteenth-century schoolhouse and is one of the finest hostels in the country. There are showers in most of the small dorm rooms, an exceptionally comfortable common room and a generous breakfast of juice, freshly brewed ground coffee, cereal and toast which makes a pleasant change from the frugal offerings of most hostels. It's easy camping country, too - just ask a farmer - and during July and August there are public showers down by the lough jetty. Swimming is relatively safe in the lake, but not in the river. For bike rental and repairs, Tony Cunningham's on Dominick St (tel 0509/41070) is the place to go. The Bank of Ireland is on Clonfert Avenue, and the post office is on Abbey Street. There's also a laundry - Frank's in Brendan Street. There are three very friendly places to eat in the main street: An Bialann , a reasonably priced restaurant serving an impressive and diverse menu; Clonwyn House , which does traditional cooked meals at any time; and the Beehive which serves exceptional pizzas and is very popular locally. Although small, Portumna has an astounding twenty-one pubs , and there's no shortage of ballad sessions - the Corner House offers regular nights hosted by owner John Horan. You can catch a traditional ceilidh at Clonwyn House on Sunday nights, when the old folk come in to do their set dancing.
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