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Galway's eastern boundary is one of water: Lough Derg, the Shannon and the River Suck. The tourist-geared villages are again catering mainly for the fishing fraternity, but there is enough of historic interest to warrant leisurely exploration. BALLINASLOE is the main town in east Galway. Important as a crossing point of the River Suck since 1124 when Turlough O'Conor, King of Connacht, built a castle here - the remains that can be seen today date mainly from the fourteenth century. You're only really likely to be here if you've come for the famous horse fair , which starts on the first weekend in October and lasts for eight days. The largest of the ancient fairs left in the country, drawing horse dealers from all over Ireland and England, it gives a fascinating glimpse into a way of life that is slowly disappearing. The bartering is very much a game, though a serious one. Generally, both parties know the value of the horse in question but enjoy the bartering ritual anyway, with its possibilities of outdoing an opponent. The logic seems to be that if you're not up to the bartering, you don't deserve the right price for the animal. If you intend to visit the fair, you'll have to book accommodation well in advance. The tourist office , part of Keller Travel, Main St (July-Aug Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; tel 0905/42131), can give you more information on accommodation around the region and make bookings. The main hotel in town is Hayden's in Dunlo Street which is good value (tel 0905/42347; GBP90-110/?114.28-139.67); for B&B try Angela Lyons' Nephin , Portumna Road, Kellygrove (tel 0905/42685; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79). Bike rental is available from P. Clarke & Sons, Dunlo St (tel 0905/42417). The countryside to the south of Ballinasloe makes a dull setting for a fine piece of ecclesiastical architecture, well worth taking in if you're staying in the area or heading south towards Portumna and Lough Derg. From the R357 road five miles south of town, Clontuskert Abbey looks impressive in this open countryside, like some iron-grey battleship adrift on the flat and muddy approaches to the Suck. The church is the only sizeable remnant of the abbey complex, with a perpendicular west door of 1471, carved with figures of the saints.
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