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Galway Mayo and Roscommon






Galway, Mayo and Roscommon mark a distinct change in the west of Ireland scene. Coming from the south, County Galway may at first seem a continuation of what has gone before in Clare and Kerry. And Galway city is in some ways the west coast town par excellence - an exceptionally enjoyable, free-spirited sort of place, and a gathering point for young travellers. But once you get beyond the city things start to change. The landscape is dramatically harsher and far less populous, and there are fewer visitors, too.

Lough Corrib , which divides Galway in two, delineates another dramatic split in the landscape of the county, this time between east and west, inland and coast. To the east of the lake lies tame, fertile land which people have farmed for centuries, while to the west lies Connemara , a magnificently wild terrain of wind and rock and water. The Aran Islands , in the mouth of Galway Bay, resemble Connemara both in their elemental beauty and in their culture; the Galway Gaeltacht - areas where Irish is still spoken - comprises the islands, Iar-Chonnacht and some scattered communities in north Connemara and Joyce country (north of Lough Corrib). While it can't compete with the rest of the county, east Galway 's medieval monastic sites are well worth taking in as you pass through. Again, Galway city straddles the divide. A bridging point both physically and culturally, it's a fishing port, an historic city and the focus of an energetic social and artistic scene.

Further up the coast is County Mayo , where the landscape softens somewhat but is still relatively free of tourists. The pilgrimage centre of Knock and the attractions of historic towns like Westport aside, it's the coast which is once again the main draw. Physically, it's as exciting and rugged as any in the Republic, and far less exploited, though the downside is that facilities for travellers are relatively thin on the ground. An exception is Achill , the largest Irish offshore island and popular holiday resort, which provides both some of the most

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spectacular cliffs in the country and caters well for travellers.

County Roscommon is entirely landlocked and less visited still. There are few real excitements, and the land is for the most part flat and low lying; nevertheless, the fine detail of this landscape, scattered with small lakes and large houses, has a slow charm. There are places that merit a look as you pass through, and in the extreme north, around Lough Key , there's some very attractive scenery indeed.


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5/12/2008 10:31:23 AM

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