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The main road leading west of Christchurch (High Street leading to James's Street), is interspersed with grim corporate housing and deserted factories, and dominated by the Guinness brewery . The brewery was used as one of the sets in Fritz Lang's Metropolis , with huge dark chimneys belching smoke and tiny figures hurrying along grimy balconies. For all the seediness of its surroundings, however, Guinness is one of Ireland's biggest commercial successes. Founded in 1759, the St James's Gate brewery covers 64 acres and has the distinction of being the world's largest single beer-exporting company, exporting some three hundred million pints of the famous stout a year; 2.5 million pints are brewed here every day. Unfortunately, you can't go round the brewery, but the former Guinness Hop Store on Rainsford Street houses an exhibition centre containing a replica brewery, pub, restaurant, gift shop and various exhibition rooms (Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm; tel 453 3645, www.guinness.ie ; GBP5/6.35; buses #21A, #78, #78A and #78B from outside the Virgin Megastore opposite O'Connell Bridge). The best of the exhibition rooms are on the upper floors of the airy, four-storey building, and feature displays on Guinness advertising from the animal cartoons and painful puns of John Gilroy to the more obscure modern masterpieces. The upper floors are also given over to exhibitions of contemporary art and offer fine views over Dublin. The self-guided tour ends with what is arguably the best Guinness in Dublin - arguably because the honour traditionally went to Mulligan's in Poolbeg Street , which still has its devotees.
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