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HOWTH (the name derives from the Danish hoved, or "head", and is pronounced to rhyme with "both") lies at the northernmost point of both Dublin Bay and the DART line. Arriving in Howth, turn right out of the DART station for the castle, left for the village, abbey and cliff walks. You can also get here on the #31 bus, picking up from the centre. Howth Head is a natural vantage point giving views right across Dublin Bay to the Wicklow Mountains and at times, so they claim, even as far as the distant mountains of Mourne in the north and those of Wales across the Irish Sea. Not surprisingly, it has been a strategic military point for centuries, and its history involves a long line of fearful incumbents on the lookout for raiders. The legendary copper-mining Parthalons and Firbolg were the first to come, later conquered by the Gaelic chieftain Criomthain, whose grave is reputedly marked by a cairn on the summit. The Gaels, in turn, were ousted by the Vikings in the eighth century, and they were overthrown by the technologically and strategically superior Normans, led by Sir Almeric Tristram. His descendants, bearing the surname St Lawrence, continue to live at Howth Castle today. Howth is a popular day-trip destination for Dubliners, and it has the happy and bracing air of a seaside resort, even off-season. There's a harbour on the northside, dating from the days when it, rather than Dun Laoghaire, was the main packet station for Dublin. At the jetty at the end of the West Pier you can see the footprint of King George IV, who landed here in 1821 instead of at Dun Laoghaire (which was expecting to rename itself Kingstown in honour of the event; he made up for it later by going home that way). It was from the same jetty, in July 1914, that the Irish Volunteers succeeded in landing 900 rifles and 25,000 rounds of ammunition from Erskine Childers' yacht Asgard , which you can see at Kilmainham Gaol. The harbour, full of working boats, is nowadays sited alongside a marina crowded with less practical craft. You can fish from the harbour pier, and, if you're in Howth on a Thursday evening, it's worth staying to see the spectacle when the herring boats come in. Beshoff's (renowned for their fish-and-chip shops throughout the city) has a fishmongers on the west quay, selling the freshest and cheapest seafood in the Dublin area. Opposite the harbour, the rock-encrusted island is Ireland's Eye . A bird sanctuary, this uninhabited expanse of scrub grass and ferns sports yet another Martello Tower and the ruins of a sixth-century monastic church, St Nessan's. In summer, you can cross by boat with Frank Doyle & Sons (tel 831 4200; return trip GBP5/?6.35) to explore the island. Much of the interior of Howth Head is built up, but a footpath runs all the way round the coast. There are impressive cliffs and amazing views: south past the mouth of the Liffey to the Wicklow Mountains, and beyond, north to the flatlands of the Boyne. To get to the cliffs, either carry straight on along the shore road, or take the #31B bus up to the summit and cut down from there. Howth village itself is a slow, suburban place full of steep streets and sudden views. Its one monument, on a quiet site overlooking Ireland's Eye, is the ruined Howth Abbey, the first church founded by Sigtrygg, Norse king of Dublin, in 1042. In one of the later phases of a chequered history, it was used by smugglers for storing contraband. The abbey is kept locked, but it is possible to get the keys from the caretaker (tel 840 1979). Just below the abbey is the Abbey Tavern : bare, stone-walled, with stark wood furniture, turf fires and gas lighting. While the old-world ambience can seem a little over-the-top it's well worth visiting, as long as you don't mind the tourist bus-trip approach to Irish wit and music. The Abbey Tavern restaurant specializes in fish (best to book; tel 839 0307) while the adjoining pub serves hearty lunchtime fare. The small lane and steep steps beside the pub lead to the excellent Big Blue cafe/restaurant, a tastefully restored building overlooking the abbey where you can lounge in a deep-blue sofa and enjoy a coffee, while taking in views of the abbey ruins below, and beyond to the harbour and Ireland's Eye. The other good eating place, if you've money to burn, is the excellent King Sitric's Tavern , East Pier (tel 633 5235) with expensive but fabulous main courses of fresh seafood, while at the opposite end of the market, opposite the west pier (nearest the train station), is another outlet of the excellent Beshoff's fish-and-chip shops. To get to Howth Castle , turn right out of the station along Howth Road towards Dublin and, after a couple of hundred yards, it's signposted on the left. The castle itself isn't open to the public, but there's a small transport museum which is (daily: June-Aug 10am-5pm; Sept-May noon-5pm; GBP1.50/?1.90). It's an impressive building, even from the outside - a true, battlemented castle, partly ruined, partly inhabited - and one that architects from Francis Bindon to Edwin Lutyens have had a hand in restoring. The gardens are famous for their azaleas and rhododendrons, which bloom from May to June.
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