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WATERVILLE may be touristy, but it manages to avoid being tacky. Popular as a Victorian and Edwardian resort and angling centre, it still has an air of consequence that sits oddly with the wild Atlantic views. Its few bars and hotels aside, the town is chiefly notable as the best base on the Ring for exploring the coast and the mountainous country inland. There's B&B accommodation at Ashling House , Main St (tel 066/947 4247; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79) and at The Smuggler's Inn , Cliff Rd (closed Nov-Feb; tel 066/947 4330; GBP70-90/?88.88-114.28). The Butlers Arms Hotel (closed late Oct-March; tel 066/947 4144, butarms@iol.ie ; over GBP130/?165.07) offers seaviews and a welcoming atmosphere. Peter's Place Hostel (no phone), on the seafront at the south end of town, is small and cosy, and its jovial owner may rustle you up a meal, and you can also camp. Most of the bars and hotels do food, one of the best being The Lobster Bar , and for inexpensive home cooking, try the welcoming An Corcan , at the north end of the main street (till 10pm in summer). From Waterville, it's a long haul by bike or on foot up to the Coomakista Pass , but the effort is well worth it for the breathtaking views over the mouth of the Kenmare River, all greys and blues, the three rocks called the Bull, the Cow and the Calf, and beyond them the Beara Peninsula - most spectacular when the weather's good; when it rains you can see the squalls being driven in across the ocean. Unfortunately you can't hope to avoid lots of other tourists here.
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