The Kerry Way
The Kerry Way, 133 miles long, is part of a long-distance footpath that goes through Macgillycuddy's Reeks then right around the Iveragh Peninsula through Glenbeigh, Cahersiveen, Waterville, Caherdaniel and Kenmare - a sort of walkers' Ring of Kerry. More than most of Ireland's long-distance footpaths, it's resonant of the culture, as well as the nature, of the area and consists largely of green roads, many of them old drovers' roads or "butter roads" (along which butter was transported) and routes between Kerry's ancient Christian settlements. Whichever section you choose to walk, you'll need the relevant 1:50,000 OS map - numbers 78 and 83 respectively. The Kerry Way starts inauspiciously in Killarney , threads down through the Muckross Estate and alongside the Upper Lake - road walking, most of it - before heading up to meet the Black Valley . From the Black Valley, it heads on towards Cloghernoosh via a stony path that becomes a green road. After the footbridge over the stream running out of Curraghmore Lake, there's a stretch of bridleway, and from here on you're among the peaks, with exhilarating views of Carrauntoohil to the north. Next, the footpath follows the Lack Road, zigzagging up to a saddle point at the top, then skirting the side of Lough Acoose before reaching the Glencar Valley (and the first tourist accommodation since the Black Valley). No longer traversing really high ground, the rest of the way into Glenbeigh is less exciting, although the stretch on Seefin Mountain above Caragh Lake is still spectacular. From here the Way runs around the peninsula, is especially scenic between Waterville and Caherdaniel and eventually leads back to Killarney. All the usual precautions need to be taken seriously in a region where gales blowing in off the Atlantic can make the weather change rapidly. Bring waterproofs, walking boots and food. You should really fix up accommodation beforehand. There's an An Oige hostel in the Black Valley , roughly eight hours' walk from Killarney; hitching isn't recommended, since the nearest road seeing any traffic is eight miles from the start of the valley. Next stop is the Climbers' Inn (weekends only Nov-March; tel 066/976 0101; GBP40-55/?50.79-69.84), offering both B&B and hostel accommodation, hidden among woodlands at Glencar ; meals are available in the bar, decorated with a church pulpit, and there's a shop and advice on local walks and climbs; check they have hostel accommodation in advance if you don't want to end up paying for B&B. For accommodation in Glenbeigh . Nine miles from Killarney, the Mountain Rest Lodge (tel 064/44272), Carnahone, Beaufort , is close to the main approach to Carrauntoohil. About one mile along the N72 west of the Beaufort turn-off there's camping at Riverside Park . If you do plan to scale Ireland's highest mountain, you should really get some local advice first: try John Walsh at the Climbers' Inn , Glencar, or phone Eileen Daly of Killarney Mountaineering Club on tel 064/34677. Alternatively, pick up a copy of the excellent Walk Guide: South West of Ireland by Sean O Suilleabhain (pub. Gill and Macmillan), which details 47 walks in and around Kerry, including walks up Carrauntoohil.
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