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Arranmore Island





Arranmore Island Ferry Service (Mon-Sat 5-8 sailings, Sun 3-7 sailings; GBP6/?7.60 return; car plus driver GBP18/?22.78; tel 075/20532) operates a year-round car ferry for the twenty-minute boat trip from Burtonport to Arranmore Island , which passes through the straits between the nearest cluster of islands (Rutland, Inishfree, Inishcoo and Eighter), and then across an open expanse of water to the main village on Arranmore, LEABGARROW . There's little accommodation on the island apart from the Glen Hotel (tel 075/20505; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), and Bonner's (tel 075/20532; GBP26-33/?33.01-41.90) by the pier. The island's permanent population of around eight hundred people is almost entirely concentrated along the eastern and southern coastline. The high centre-ground of bogland and lakes reaches a greater altitude than anywhere else in the Rosses and it's well worth hiking a few hundred yards upland for great views back across the water to Burtonport.

A circuit of the whole island takes only three hours and the terrain isn't especially taxing. Much of it consists of blustery cliff-top views of the Atlantic, but there are a few intriguing spots to investigate or ponder on. The island's greatest tragedy occurred off the very southeastern tip during the stormy night of November 9, 1935, when a sailing ship carrying returning islanders ran aground on the rocks. Nineteen people died, including seven from the same family - the eighth member on board, Patrick Gallagher, was the only survivor. Many ships have foundered in the choppy seas hereabouts, but, in 1983, the lone American yachtsman, Wayne Dickinson, landed on the island's west coast after 147 days at sea in the smallest boat ever to cross the Atlantic. In the cliffs below St Crone's Church on the southern shore is Uaimh an Air (the "cave of slaughter") where seventy hiding islanders were massacred in the seventeenth century by a certain Captain Conyngham, an action which lay somewhat outside his remit from Charles I to rid the Rosses of "rogues and rapparees". Two islanders took revenge by killing the captain in Dunfanaghy. Uninhabited Green Island , at the southwestern tip, is now a bird sanctuary and rare species have been spotted hereabouts, including the Snowy Owl in 1993. The most dramatic of the several beaches is at the northwestern end of the island, on the way to the lighthouse and approached by a set of steps down the side of a perpetually crumbling cliff.

Facilities on Arranmore are limited, but the half-dozen pubs are blessed

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with a 24-hour fishing port licence which is helpful, as there is little nightlife apart from Boyle's nightclub, though Pally's bar has regular entertainments. A few of the pubs have small shops attached and you can eat at Bonner's cafe or, more expensively, the Glen Hotel , while Phil Ban's bar serves snacks all day. Football (soccer) is the sport here and Arranmore is the only Irish island to have a team playing in a mainland competitive league.


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12/4/2008 11:28:37 PM

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