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Passing the smoking funnels of a kelp factory, the coastal route heads off in the direction of BURTONPORT (signposted Ailt an Chorrain , "curved ravine"), half-a-mile off the main road and the embarkation point for Arranmore Island and, if you can find someone to take you out, for other smaller islands. In the late eighteenth century, the English attempted to establish Rutland Island as a major trading centre and, consequently, this area became the first English-speaking district in the whole of Donegal. During the 1798 rebellion James Napper Tandy landed on the island with French troops, but became somewhat inebriated on hearing of Wolfe Tone's capture and had to be carried back on board. More recent English connections have included the Screamers, a post-hippie commune with a belief in primal scream therapy and sexual liberation whose leaders departed some years ago for Colombia, and the Silver Sisters, a trio of apparently demure Victorian-dressed ladies who fled the village once it became clear that the disciplined life they espoused had more to do with sado-masochism than moral rectitude. Apart from busy activity at the harbour, the village has little to say for itself, but should you want to stay, Mrs McGinley , down by the pier, does year-round B&B (tel 075/42047; GBP26-33/?33.01-41.90) and, nearby, there's Campbell's Pier House (tel 075/42017, campbellh@boinet.ie ; GBP40-55/?50.79-69.84). For eating , The Lobster Pot specializes in seafood and the Harbour provides bar meals. Otherwise you'll have to make do with pies and fish and chips. There's little nightlife here, though the Skipper's Tavern offers occasional traditional music. There are plenty of fish in the nearby waters and you can rent a boat from Burtonport Sea Angling and Boating Centre (tel 075/42077).
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