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The road crawling up the east side of the peninsula is an interesting approach to Fanad Head. It starts at RAMELTON , a quaint and sedate little town which sits attractively on the eastern bank of the broad black flow of the salmon-rich River Leannan. The town has heritage status because of its many Georgian houses and there are some fine stone warehouses on the bank side. Wander uphill, however, and you'll encounter boarded-up buildings (including the eighteenth-century Sweeney's Tavern ) and other signs of decay - fortunately, there are rejuvenation plans afoot. The old Meeting House in Back Lane houses the Donegal Genealogical Centre , a must for anyone seeking to verify their local ancestry. Mirabeau is a popular restaurant , serving steaks and seafood, while the House on the Brae coffee shop dispenses home baking. For entertainment, try the Bridge Bar (Wed & Fri-Sun), where you can hear R&B, jazz or rock. Should you decide to stay, there's fine B&B at Ardeen (April-Oct; tel 074/51243, ardeenbandb@tinet.ie ; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), overlooking Lough Swilly, and at Frewin (March-Nov; tel 074/51246, flaxmill@indigo.ie ; GBP70-90/?88.88-114.28), a converted Victorian rectory set in wooded grounds half a mile south of town off the Letterkenny road. The next stop north, RATHMULLAN is a pretty place with its long row of multicoloured houses facing Lough Swilly. The beach here is classed among the cleanest in Europe - note the Blue Flag at the pier, where boats can be rented from Malcolm Bowden (tel 074/58282). In 1587 Red Hugh O'Donnell was lured onto a British merchant ship here, on the pretext of a merry drink, and ended up in Dublin jail for six years; and in 1607 Rathmullan was a departure point for the Flight of the Earls , the event that marked the end of the Gaelic nation. Rathmullan Heritage Centre (Easter to mid-Sept Mon-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun noon-6pm; tel 074/58229; GBP1/?1.27) recounts this event and provides a host of information on local accommodation and leisure activities. In October 1798 the French frigate Hoche , with Wolfe Tone on board, was intercepted in the Lough nearby and Tone was captured and taken to Dublin for trial. The view across to Fahan on the Inishowen Peninsula is enticing (a small ferryboat operates in summer), but otherwise the only thing to delay your passing through is Rathmullan Friary , one of the better-preserved historical ruins in Donegal. The original part of it was built by Rory MacSweeney in 1508 and then presented to the Carmelites. George Bingham plundered it in 1595 and used it as a barracks, and in 1618 it was further adapted as a castle residence by Bishop Knox. Only the chancel area continued to serve as a church until its eventual abandonment in 1814. Today you can see traces of Gothic doorways and narrow window apertures. On the way into Rathmullan, there's very good eating to be had at the Water's Edge restaurant, while gourmets and oenophiles are also catered for by The Ferry Gate (Mon & Thurs-Sun, evenings only) on Pier Road. The comfortably old-fashioned Pier Hotel (April-Sept; tel 074/58178; GBP40-55/?50.79-69.84) serves excellent fresh salmon for a fraction of what you'd pay at the upmarket Rathmullan House nearby (closed Jan; tel 074/58188; rathhse@iol.ie ; GBP110-130/?139.67-165.07). You can savour the Lough Foyle view over a pint in the friendly Beachcomber bar . The only other accommodation in the village is offered by the Fort Royal Hotel (April-Oct; tel 074/58100, fortroyal@eircom.net ; over GBP130/?165.07); for less pricey accommodation, you'll need to head to SALTPANS , three miles north, where Carriglough House (March-Nov; tel 074/58197; GBP26-33/?33.01-41.90) provides B&B. The Pier Hotel has traditional music on Thursday nights in summer.
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