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Two miles north of Rathmullan, on the coast road, a signpost to the left indicates a little track that leads towards the tenth-century Drumhallach cross slab , only four and a half feet high. It has delightful carvings of two figures sitting on the arms of the cross sucking away at their thumbs. This curiosity is linked by local folklore with Fionn Mac Cumhaill, who one day burned his thumb while tending to the salmon of knowledge, and immediately stuck it in his mouth - thereafter doing the same whenever he needed to be wise. The lower figures on this front face are harder to make out but are meant to represent bishops. Back on the main route, the road climbs to give great views across to Dunree Head and the Urris range of mountains on the Inishowen Peninsula to the east. About seven miles north of Rathmullan is Bunnaton House hostel (March-Oct; tel 074/50122, bunnaton@eircom.net ), sited in an old coastguard station with pleasant views of a small cove with a rocky beach. The hostel can provide details of the great walks nearby, both beside the lough and inland through the Irish-speaking Glenvar valley to Kerrykeel on the western side of the peninsula. Further on the road towards Portsalon is the Knockalla Caravan and Camping Park (tel 074/59108, knockalla@oceanfree.net ). Continuing north, the road rises until you're running along the cliff-top approach to Saldanha Head . Here you'll witness the most spectacular views on the entire peninsula, looking across to Inishowen and down onto the three-mile stretch of golden sand at Ballymastocker Bay. The tiny village of PORTSALON , on the other side of the strand, was once a great holidaying spot, but there's little sign of this now apart from a courtyard full of holiday chalets. The highlight is Rita's Pier Stores by the tiny harbour, with its 1950s-style decor, wooden bar counter and shelves for sweets and bottled drinks. For B&B try the award-winning Croaghross Cottage (March-Sept; tel 074/59548, jkdeane@iol.ie ; GBP40-55/?50.79-69.84) which also serves excellent dinners. The Portsalon golf course (tel 074/59459) must have one of the most picturesque settings in the country.
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