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The small resort of DUNFANAGHY , seven miles east of Falcarragh, is the gateway to the Horn Head Peninsula . It's an aristocratically self-conscious plantation town, whose strongly Presbyterian atmosphere contrasts vividly with settlements to the west or south. On the western outskirts of town is the impressive Workhouse (March-Oct Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat & Sun noon-5pm; GBP2.50/?3.16), sympathetically restored as a local history and community centre. It was originally built in 1845 on the eve of the Great Famine and at first had only five inmates, but by 1847, as the Famine intensified, over six hundred people were crowded inside. The Famine story is recounted upstairs, through the tale of one local inmate, 'Wee' Hannah Herrity, who lived until 1926 - though the narrative method (a distinctly dull and disappointing series of tableaux) undermines the power of her story. The centre hosts occasional innovative world- and traditional- music sessions and displays work by local artists; alternatively, you can simply sit, sup and chat in the coffee shop. Next door, the former fever hospital houses The Gallery, where you can admire more artwork and consider purchases from a range of crafts. For accommodation, there are two hotels , Arnolds (tel 074/36208, arnoldshotel@eircom.net ; GBP90-110/?114.28-139.67), which also has a riding stables, and Carrig Rua (tel 074/36133, carrigruahotel@eircom.net ; GBP70-90/?88.88-114.28). Both also offer food. There are plenty of B&Bs , including Rushvale (tel 074/36404; GBP26-33/?33.01-41.90) and The Whins (tel 074/36481; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79). As a less expensive, though comfortable, alternative, the excellent Corcreggan Mill hostel (tel 074/36409, brendanr@eircom.net ) is a mile or so west towards Falcarragh and also has private rooms in a converted railway carriage and camping . As for places to eat , there's a fast-food outlet, Josie's , as well as Danny Collins pub offering soups and pricey but delicious seafood, and the upmarket Danaa's (tel 074/36150), serving lobster and turbot dishes from GBP20/?25.40. McGilloway's Oyster Bar is light and airy, and a grand place for enjoying a pint, enhanced by the Derry artist John McCandless's tremendous portraits of musicians and writers, from Sinead O'Connor to Brendan Behan. There's occasional live music here, too (from traditional to blues), and sessions also at Michael's Bar up the street. Dan Devine's is lively and cosy with friendly bar staff and a nightclub, Roonies , attached. Moving east from Dunfanaghy, the road follows the side of Sheephaven Bay ; signposted turn-offs run to the popular holiday spots Portnablagh and Marble Hill Strand. From the former you can catch the Wednesday ferry to Tory Island in summer . A little further east, Marble Hill Strand is a vast sweep of sand and is also the location for the Shandon Hotel and Leisure Centre (March-Oct; tel 074/36137, shandonhotel@eircom.net ; GBP90-110/?114.28-139.67), equipped with pool, tennis courts and pitch-and-putt. You can also learn to wind-surf here or rent boards from Marble Hill Windsurfing (July & Aug only; tel 074/36231) Overlooking the strand, Marble Hill House was once owned by Hugh Law , TD for Donegal in the first Irish Parliament of 1922, who entertained all manner of celebrities here, including W.B. and Jack Yeats. Nearby Ards Forest Park occupies the former demesne of the Capuchin Friary of Ard Mhuire; a mile-long avenue alongside Lough Lilly takes you into its centre where there are fine walks through the woodland.
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